Monday, October 27, 2008

Sunday, October 26, 2008

"More" & Old MacDonald

Finn is finally starting to use the signs we taught him. In this video we captured the first time he used the sign for "more."
Check out Finn, Faith and Patience singing "Old MacDonald"

Baby Einstein and a Heavy Dose of Reality

It rained. This was remarkable for the fact that it was the first significant rain I have seen in my almost six months here. The winds came in Thursday night, followed by lots of thunder and lightening that gave Findley a fright and mom and dad an excuse to have him sleep with us. Friday morning arrived with grey skies and a steady drizzle that lasted most of the day. I felt the same way I do in Washington DC when the temperatures rise and the sun comes through after a long winter. I resisted the urge to run outside, jump in the puddles and belt out the chorus to Creedence Clearwater Revival’s “Have you Ever Seen the Rain?”

Our good friend Kate Maloney recently mailed us about the lack of new blog entries. (Thank you for noticing Kate.) Truth be told, the blog exists, and survives, largely because of the efforts of Chase. If Findley will start doing more chores around the house and sleeping another six or hours so during the day, we will write more postings. I’ve spoken with him about this and he says he will try to start pulling his own weight. Speaking of Findley, it turns out we have the smartest and cutest kid in the world. He isn’t walking yet, but he crawls with the speed and tenacity of the Road Runner, and he is into everything now. I now know what it is like to be a doting parent whose child can do no wrong. He can clap on command, wave hello and goodbye, make the sign for fan, and signal “more” when he is eating something he likes. Judging from the way mom and dad exalt in each new thing he does, you would think his accomplishments are on the level of him finding a cure for cancer or bringing about world peace. (Give him time.) We are obsessed and it's verging on pathetic.

My other news is that Chase has encountered an exciting new opportunity. Through a friend of a friend, she connected with a Peace Corps volunteer heading up a teen club for Botswana HIV-positive teens. There is an amazing clinic here in Gaborone called the Botswana-Baylor Clinical Center of Excellence. It was created through a public private partnership between the Baylor College of Medicine in Texas, Botswana’s Princess Marina Hospital and the Government of Botswana. The facility is state-of-the-art and the first of its kind on the continent. More than 1800 children and adolescents are treated there, serving a huge need in a country ravaged by AIDS. The teen club is basically a support group for adolescents being treated at the clinic. Chase approached them about volunteering time, and it turns out to be a perfect fit in terms of her background in youth development (previously with Red Cross/Red Crescent)and the plans they have to build and expand the teen club into regions outside of Gaborone.

She started last week, and will be building a curriculum and traveling to different villages in Botswana to start new clubs. Her experience will be a huge contribution to the clinic’s outreach efforts, and it gives us a chance to travel to some places outside of Gaborone. On Saturday we went to the monthly gathering of the teen club in Gaborone. Every meeting offers a different experience for the kids. Last month they were treated to a day with the national soccer team in Botswana. This month, the clinic brought in people from different professions to talk about their jobs. Sort of a “career” day where the teens heard from a doctor, police man, nutritionist, model (kind of an odd addition to the speaker panel but one that was appreciated, especially by the boys) and others talk about what they do and what it took to get to where they are. The message: don’t let anyone tell you that can’t do something; anything is possible.

It’s a daunting prospect in many ways working with this population. You see these kids, all of them HIV-positive (most born with HIV and carrying it into their teen years) and they are poor and some of them obviously suffering physically. But for a day at least they are carefree and allowed to just be themselves. We met some amazing kids during the meeting, and I am really proud of Chase for taking this on. The whole day also gave me pause to realize how lucky we are to have a healthy boy. Anyway, for all the crap that exists in this world, there is reason for optimism and it exists in places like the Baylor clinic. So take heart.

Saturday, October 25, 2008

A Sense of Purpose

A new friend of mine teaches at one of the International Schools in Gaborone. She told me that one of her colleagues was going on maternity leave and that I could apply for the position. I met with the Head of School and learned that it was a 3 month position for Standard 4 (equivalent of 4th grade). I explained that both my qualifications and experience are for secondary education and wasn't sure if the job would be a good fit. He then invited me to come and shadow the class for a day. After my observation, I was very excited and wanted the job. A few days later, I called the Head of School to tell him I was interested and wanted to know the next steps. I left this message with the receptionist. After relaying my message to him, the receptionist called back to tell me the job was mine. To make a long story short, I didn't get the job. The receptionist made a mistake. Apparently a former teacher of the school returned to the area and she will be covering the maternity leave. Makes perfect sense, as she is much more qualified and familiar with the school. But how embarrassing / disappointing!!!

Coincidentally, the very next day I had an appointment with Ed, a Peace Corps volunteer. He is working at the Botswana-Baylor Clinic, the largest university-based program worldwide dedicated to improving the health and lives of HIV-positive children. Because of this clinic, which opened in 2003, fewer children are being hospitilized because of HIV/AIDS realted illnesses and even fewer are dying. The number of adolescents in Botswana under the clinc's care is increasing rapidly - primarily a result of children who were born with HIV are surviving into their teenage years. As a result, the Botswana-Baylor Clinic has already spearheaded a number of medical and psychosocial interventions for its teen patients, including a comprehensive Adolescent Clinic and Teen Club. Ed runs the Teen Club. Since he started working here in May, the club has increased at a rate of 20% a month. There are now almost 100 teen participants. Therefore, my meeting with him came at the perfect time. He needs help!

The mission of the Teen Club is "to provide a safe, welcoming and nurturing environment for HIV-positive adolescents to build positive relationships, increase their self-esteem, and reinforce positive habits that will ensure a healthy transition into adulthood." So far, the Club Meetings have been mostly recreational. Ed has a vision to implement a life-skills component and this is where I come in...while so many "life-skill" programs exist, there are not any that are catered to HIV positive teens. So my task is to create a curriculum that fits their need. I will also help Ed run the current Teen Club in Gabs while also starting others in satellite locations.

This opportunity is perfect for so many reasons including:
#1. I finally have a window into the Botswana culture. So far, we've experienced the "expat" life and have found it difficult to truly experience the Botswana culture.
#2. I get to learn Setswana (the local language)
#3. While I feel incredibly lucky and grateful to have spent Finn's first 10 and 1/2 months with him all day, every day, we both need some independence!
#4. The opportunity gives me a purpose, something I feel has been missing, and also a chance to give back.

Friday, October 10, 2008

Hashing Again

Since our first hash experience, we've only done two others. They were two entirely different experiences, both giving us the opportunity to enjoy two different flavors of Botswana. One was out in the bush (similar to the first experience), however, it had an unexpected surprise. For the first half, I carried Finn in the bjorn while Ian ran. After walking through the desert for a good 45 minutes, we turned a corner, and suddenly right in front of us, we were pleasantly surprised by water. Yep, Gaborone has a damn. I see a sign for it on the side of the road every day, but I had no idea that this damn was so big and so beautiful. Unfortunately, I did not have my camera so you will have to trust me. At the half way point, Finn got to go with his dad, while I went with the runners. I sure did get tricked. The run suddenly became a "rock climb." A photograph is the only way I can explain. We went back the next day so I could take a picture of what I climbed over. Even though I returned with plenty of cuts and bruises, the view was worth it. Keep in mind, as you run in the hash, you have no idea where you are supposed to be going. You just follow this powdered trail. The following week, the hash was in the city. It was actually hosted by an American couple who live on our street. I was thrilled to know that it was a "stroller friendly" hash. I'm so glad we went because it gave us a more realistic flavor...a local flavor of Gaborone. For example, our beer stop was the place where the locals buy their alcoholic beverages (illegally), but other basic/legal commodities as well. It was an old run down bus converted into a shop. Finn made a handful of botswana boys who were fascinated by his stroller. Hopefully this video will give you the idea:
These boys ended up following us all the way back. Fortunately the host gave each of them a soda.

Jacaranda


We have a new favorite tree: the jacaranda. Now that it is spring here, they have bloomed all over Gaborone. They are absolutely beautiful!

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Respect Your Peeps

We continue to make progress during our Kalahari adventure. I have now burned out a DVD player, computer and flat screen monitor, and magic bullet (blender) because of different voltage requirements here. The good news is that I have no other electronic gadgets to break. There is something to be said for taking a minimalist approach and we are actually adjusting nicely to the slower pace of Gaborone. We have our good days and our bad days. But even on the bad days, Chase reminds me that we all get to spend much more time together here than we did in DC when I would leave for the office at 6:30-7:00 and not return until after 7pm most days because of the commute and longer hours. Here, Chase and Finn and I have breakfast together, they take me into work, then pick me up at 5 so we are home by 5:20 and I get another hour and half with Findley before putting him down. And lots of free time on the weekends. It’s fantastic.

Some of the cultural differences between Botswana and the U.S. jump out and slap you in the face, and some creep in silently and settle in without you even noticing them until someone points them out or you step back and think about it.

Botswana is populated by 20 different tribes. As an outsider it is easy to overlook the fact that there are lots of subtle differences among the different groups, and these differences drive the political dynamics at the national and local levels and everything in between. But there are some social norms that cross over the socio-economic classes.

Botswana (people from Botswana are called Botswana; an individual is referred to as Motswana) place a high premium on respect. There are many gestures to convey respect, and I can say that I have gotten most of them wrong at one time or another. When shaking hands you are supposed to support your right hand with your left; the nearer you place your hand to your wrist the more respectful you are being. It is seen as dishonest if you do not look someone in the eye, unless you are a child speaking to an elder in which case you are supposed to look down as a sign of respect. If you pass someone in the street, it is considered rude not to offer up a “Dumela Ma” to a woman or a “Dumela Ra” if you are addressing a man. It is also rude to accept any object with your left hand. These social norms cross over classes, so everyone for the most part follows them.

I love this whole notion of showing respect and wish we had more of a penchant for it in the U.S. As the presidential election unfolds, and the financial crisis deepens, it angers me to no end how bad things have gotten over the last 8 years. In my limited experience traveling to different places overseas, I can say that we have forfeited a great deal of goodwill and respect that other nations had for us, largely because of the arrogance and failed leadership and policies of the current administration. There’s not a whole lot of sympathy for us to be found right now, and people can say “who cares what other countries think about us” but I’m telling you it matters and will come back to bite us in the arse. I’ll step off my soapbox now and just say that I hope things get better.