I'm excited and nervous. Tomorrow is the first time that I get to lead Teen Club. I've been volunteering at the Baylor Clinic for almost 3 months now. My time there is split between the morning Play Group program and the Teen Club program. I've not only participated in Teen Club events in Gaborone, but also Mochudi and Francistown. While I had fun at each event, they weren't really what I was expecting. According the the Teen Club mission statement, we are supposed to be providing both eductation and psychosocial support so that these teens can live long healthy lives.
I thought my role as a volunteer was to develop a life skills curriculum for HIV+ kids that we would then use for future Teen Club events. In December I asked if we could pilot some of the activities I've put together. I was told there wasn't room in the agenda. I didn't push the issue. I'm just a volunteer and maybe I haven't been around long enough to see Teen Club in full effect. Ian and I came to that event. Guess what the kids did for the entire time? Played games! No doubt they had a great time - but what did they learn?
A week later I took two of the Teen Club leaders to a Rotary Club meeting. We are applying for a Roatary grant, so they asked us to make a presentation. The kids were impressive. The young lady shared that her disease made her feel lonely and depressed. She contemplated suicide. But thanks to Teen Club, her life has completely changed for the better.
Guess what I learned one month later? This young lady is pregnant. She doesn't know the father because she has multiple partners. On top of that, she hasn't disclosed her status to any of her partners.
Case in point: we are not doing what we say we are doing! What did I do? Gathered up my data from the Needs Assessment that I conducted (first task I was given as a volunteer) and opened my big mouth! Did you know that more than 70% of our "teen leaders" aren't adhering to their meds? Or that only 1 out of the 8 teen leaders can tell you the four ways HIV can be transmitted? Only 2 can tell you why it's important to take ARV's.
It's time to start doing what we say we do! And tomorrow's my chance to get that ball rolling. I've spent a lot of time researching and planning. Let's hope the implementation goes well!
Friday, January 30, 2009
Saturday, January 24, 2009
Ice, Ice Baby
With the holidays behind us, our return here to some sense of routine is more welcome than disappointing if only because Findley does better on a schedule. We did however enjoy a fantastic visit from Chase’s brother (Benton) and girlfriend (Maggie) over the X-mas/New Year break, traveling around Botswana to some of the far flung lodges and camp sites that make this country incredible to be in. Traversing gravel roads, dirt roads, and roads that at times looked like they had been bombed there were so many pot holes, we made it to our destinations in one piece and were rewarded with some great animal viewing and memories. Covering as much ground as we did in what was a pretty cramped car, with a one year old boy who wants to do nothing but move around, was bound to result in: 1) everyone killing each other (or at least wishing the others were dead) or 2) everyone trying to embrace the “adventure” and ultimately learning more about our traveling companions than when we started out. I think it is a testament to Benton and Maggie and their flexibility that #2 prevailed.
We had heard that Gaborone would empty out during the holidays, with all business, shops and restaurants closing for the better part of one month and locals traveling back to their home villages. Still, it was a little surreal just how quiet it was. Streets normally bustling with traffic and activity were silent. We were able to take long walks without fear of being steamrolled and spent lots of time trying to cool off in the pool. People returned in good spirits and looking refreshed, and it reminded me that we should take more time off in America than we do.
The inauguration was closely watched here, and locals celebrated as if Obama had just been sworn in as their own president. Lots of congratulations were extended to us, just as they were after he won the election. There seems to be more respect, and even envy, towards Americans than at any other time I can remember in my time abroad. We even renewed our cancelled satellite subscription for a month just so we could watch history unfold.
Seeing the reaction of locals to the inauguration got me thinking about the culture and mentality of people here. I may be guilty of generalizing here, but Botswana tend to live for the moment. They do not dwell on the future nearly as much as we do, and this can be both a good and a bad thing. They are a people less stressed and carefree, able to appreciate what is good in their life (no matter how much hardship might befall them). But with this mentality comes a vulnerability to bad times that may lie ahead. I worry that my staff are not going to be prepared for the loss of employment and income that comes when our project comes to an end. I talk to them about “what next” and very few seem to have a plan. I worry about Patience, our nanny from Zimbabwe, and what she will do when the family we share her with (and who also employs her and houses her husband and little girl) move from Botswana. Most don’t have a ‘Plan B’ which is disconcerting in even good times, but even more worrisome when there is a global economic crisis like the one that is just now starting to hit Botswana.
Most Southern Africa countries are very poor. The ones that are better off rely on one sector, such as oil (e.g. Angola) or diamonds (e.g. Botswana) or tourism (e.g. Seychelles). You can say their economies should be more diversified, but it isn’t really realistic. You can’t create a manufacturing sector, for example, in a place with no infrastructure, resources or comparative advantage such as cheap skilled labor. And so they face a real dilemma. In looking at Botswana, we are seeing the diamond mines begin to retrench. The U.S. and to a lesser extent Western Europe are the biggest consumers of diamonds and anyone watching the news can figure out that not many people are splurging on high end items right now. So diamond prices decline, manufacturing stops, the mining companies are sitting on huge inventories, new mining projects in the early stages are being halted because they can’t get financing, and the Government of Botswana is facing a serious spending crunch because their budgets are based on income from diamond exports (about 80% of Botswana’s GDP) that clearly isn’t going to materialize. It is going to be a bad year here, even if things rebound soon which is unlikely. And sadly, Botswana is better off than most countries in the region. They at least have political stability and a significant amount of reserves to carry them through in the short-term. On a more personal level, we have started to see many of our expat friends working in the mining industry lose their jobs and they are packing up to return home. In terms of my project, we are not really feeling much impact because our funding is already obligated. It remains to be seen what it all means for future development aid coming to Botswana, Southern Africa and the continent. There is obviously a lot of need right now everywhere and I think everyone in the development world is waiting to see where the focus of the new administration will be. So we trudge on, like everyone else, trying to forget about the troubles to the extent that it is possible and focus on the bright side.
One of the things I love about Botswana is that it is a place you can experience Africa without being overwhelmed by the hardship. I’ve heard some people describe it as “Africa for beginners” and the description is apt. (For many aid workers, it is in fact not hard enough.) On the one hand we have amenities in Gaborone that would make it a crime for us to ever complain, such as air conditioning (at least in part of the house), clean water, and a pool for gods sake. There is not one but two modern malls, cinemas, and restaurants that would seem right in place in most American cities. But within the cities and even across the street from these modern commercial districts, you have shacks adorned with nothing more than a stool and a razor that serve as barber shops, cows roaming the streets, makeshift car washes and tire repair stands and people selling everything from aquariums to crafts to fish, literally on the side of the road. You see women balancing large baskets of fruit on their head and smiling, little boys, barefoot and shirtless playing soccer on rocky dirt patches with a pathetic, unraveling ball and empty beer cartons serving as goalposts. It is this comingling of modernity and what I envisioned before I came as the “real Africa” that fascinates me. The contrast only sharpens when you leave Gaborone and venture out into the villages. One of the places we went to on our trip was a place just north of the Central Kalahari Desert, on the edge of the pans. We stayed in a very cool place called Planet Baobab. When we arrived I was in desperate need of ice (a sometimes hard to find commodity here) so that I could chill Findley’s milk that we had brought with us. The lodge did not have any ice, nor did the only gas station nearby. So one of the women working there offered to take me into her village to try and find some. We drove to four different places without success. Finally, she leads me down this dirt road to a small church where we began to hear beautiful singing. She went inside, then came back out with a woman and her child who had abandoned the service to pile into my car. We drove to the woman’s small home where she disappeared and then reemerged triumphantly with a block of ice. Apparently those with enough money there to have freezers make and sell ice to supplement their income. I’m not sure why I bring this up but I guess it kind of strikes me as a good example of how progress can reach remote places and in strange ways.
2009 is shaping up to be banner year for Findley. He started nursery school and will be going three mornings a week. This will give him a chance to experience new kids and new activities, as well as start preparing for the SATs and perhaps pick up some extracurricular activities that will look good on his college application. He has four teeth now, almost, and has expressed interest in walking but not enough to actually do it on his own. He laughs a lot and cries a lot and talks non-stop in his very own language. We relish all of it (ok, most of it). In addition to working with the teens and little children at the Baylor Clinic, Chase is now famous in diplomatic circles here. She recently was hired to write the bi-weekly newsletter that the Embassy sends out to all of the American diplomats and aid workers. The first issue went out last week and rocked the house. If you ever want to know what is going on in Gaborone, we’ll send you a copy.
We had heard that Gaborone would empty out during the holidays, with all business, shops and restaurants closing for the better part of one month and locals traveling back to their home villages. Still, it was a little surreal just how quiet it was. Streets normally bustling with traffic and activity were silent. We were able to take long walks without fear of being steamrolled and spent lots of time trying to cool off in the pool. People returned in good spirits and looking refreshed, and it reminded me that we should take more time off in America than we do.
The inauguration was closely watched here, and locals celebrated as if Obama had just been sworn in as their own president. Lots of congratulations were extended to us, just as they were after he won the election. There seems to be more respect, and even envy, towards Americans than at any other time I can remember in my time abroad. We even renewed our cancelled satellite subscription for a month just so we could watch history unfold.
Seeing the reaction of locals to the inauguration got me thinking about the culture and mentality of people here. I may be guilty of generalizing here, but Botswana tend to live for the moment. They do not dwell on the future nearly as much as we do, and this can be both a good and a bad thing. They are a people less stressed and carefree, able to appreciate what is good in their life (no matter how much hardship might befall them). But with this mentality comes a vulnerability to bad times that may lie ahead. I worry that my staff are not going to be prepared for the loss of employment and income that comes when our project comes to an end. I talk to them about “what next” and very few seem to have a plan. I worry about Patience, our nanny from Zimbabwe, and what she will do when the family we share her with (and who also employs her and houses her husband and little girl) move from Botswana. Most don’t have a ‘Plan B’ which is disconcerting in even good times, but even more worrisome when there is a global economic crisis like the one that is just now starting to hit Botswana.
Most Southern Africa countries are very poor. The ones that are better off rely on one sector, such as oil (e.g. Angola) or diamonds (e.g. Botswana) or tourism (e.g. Seychelles). You can say their economies should be more diversified, but it isn’t really realistic. You can’t create a manufacturing sector, for example, in a place with no infrastructure, resources or comparative advantage such as cheap skilled labor. And so they face a real dilemma. In looking at Botswana, we are seeing the diamond mines begin to retrench. The U.S. and to a lesser extent Western Europe are the biggest consumers of diamonds and anyone watching the news can figure out that not many people are splurging on high end items right now. So diamond prices decline, manufacturing stops, the mining companies are sitting on huge inventories, new mining projects in the early stages are being halted because they can’t get financing, and the Government of Botswana is facing a serious spending crunch because their budgets are based on income from diamond exports (about 80% of Botswana’s GDP) that clearly isn’t going to materialize. It is going to be a bad year here, even if things rebound soon which is unlikely. And sadly, Botswana is better off than most countries in the region. They at least have political stability and a significant amount of reserves to carry them through in the short-term. On a more personal level, we have started to see many of our expat friends working in the mining industry lose their jobs and they are packing up to return home. In terms of my project, we are not really feeling much impact because our funding is already obligated. It remains to be seen what it all means for future development aid coming to Botswana, Southern Africa and the continent. There is obviously a lot of need right now everywhere and I think everyone in the development world is waiting to see where the focus of the new administration will be. So we trudge on, like everyone else, trying to forget about the troubles to the extent that it is possible and focus on the bright side.
One of the things I love about Botswana is that it is a place you can experience Africa without being overwhelmed by the hardship. I’ve heard some people describe it as “Africa for beginners” and the description is apt. (For many aid workers, it is in fact not hard enough.) On the one hand we have amenities in Gaborone that would make it a crime for us to ever complain, such as air conditioning (at least in part of the house), clean water, and a pool for gods sake. There is not one but two modern malls, cinemas, and restaurants that would seem right in place in most American cities. But within the cities and even across the street from these modern commercial districts, you have shacks adorned with nothing more than a stool and a razor that serve as barber shops, cows roaming the streets, makeshift car washes and tire repair stands and people selling everything from aquariums to crafts to fish, literally on the side of the road. You see women balancing large baskets of fruit on their head and smiling, little boys, barefoot and shirtless playing soccer on rocky dirt patches with a pathetic, unraveling ball and empty beer cartons serving as goalposts. It is this comingling of modernity and what I envisioned before I came as the “real Africa” that fascinates me. The contrast only sharpens when you leave Gaborone and venture out into the villages. One of the places we went to on our trip was a place just north of the Central Kalahari Desert, on the edge of the pans. We stayed in a very cool place called Planet Baobab. When we arrived I was in desperate need of ice (a sometimes hard to find commodity here) so that I could chill Findley’s milk that we had brought with us. The lodge did not have any ice, nor did the only gas station nearby. So one of the women working there offered to take me into her village to try and find some. We drove to four different places without success. Finally, she leads me down this dirt road to a small church where we began to hear beautiful singing. She went inside, then came back out with a woman and her child who had abandoned the service to pile into my car. We drove to the woman’s small home where she disappeared and then reemerged triumphantly with a block of ice. Apparently those with enough money there to have freezers make and sell ice to supplement their income. I’m not sure why I bring this up but I guess it kind of strikes me as a good example of how progress can reach remote places and in strange ways.
2009 is shaping up to be banner year for Findley. He started nursery school and will be going three mornings a week. This will give him a chance to experience new kids and new activities, as well as start preparing for the SATs and perhaps pick up some extracurricular activities that will look good on his college application. He has four teeth now, almost, and has expressed interest in walking but not enough to actually do it on his own. He laughs a lot and cries a lot and talks non-stop in his very own language. We relish all of it (ok, most of it). In addition to working with the teens and little children at the Baylor Clinic, Chase is now famous in diplomatic circles here. She recently was hired to write the bi-weekly newsletter that the Embassy sends out to all of the American diplomats and aid workers. The first issue went out last week and rocked the house. If you ever want to know what is going on in Gaborone, we’ll send you a copy.
Thursday, December 25, 2008
Monkeys are fun…until they try to hurt you.
The Friday before Christmas, Chase and I spent our first night away from Findley since he was born. We needed the break, quite frankly, and Patience agreed to stay at our house and watch him so we knew he was in good hands. Our destination was a lodge called Tau situated in Madikwe game reserve on the far northern border of South Africa and Botswana. Madikwe is the 4th largest game reserve in South Africa and is home to all five of the “Big 5”: lion, elephant, buffalo, rhino and leopard. You always hear people talk about the Big 5 here, a label coined by big-game hunters long ago in reference to the five most difficult animals to hunt on foot. So it is with equal measure of respect and awe, and perhaps a sprinkle of fear, that people trudge out to game reserves all over in the region in hopes of spotting them all. I am not sure what we were looking forward to more, the chance to see as many animals in the wild as possible, or the prospect of sleeping past 5AM on Saturday, but the pang of guilt we felt at leaving our little guy slipped away as we arrived at the beautiful lodge tucked away deep into Madikwe.
After lunch and a nap, we woke to the sound of a herd of elephants playing in the water hole just outside our chalet. We went on a game drive in the early evening and saw lots of animals, including 4 of the Big 5 (no leopards unfortunately), warthogs, giraffe, impala, springbock, kudu and wildebeest. The guide gave us lots of good dinner party trivia (Did you know giraffes copulate for 3 seconds, then sleep for half an hour? Or that Hippos cause more human deaths here every year than any other animal—not from eating people but from charging and knocking over boats and then people drowning as a result because most locals here don’t know how to swim.) After a brief stop on the drive for sundowners (cocktails) at sunset, we went back to the lodge for a big dinner. We did sleep in the next morning, and words can’t describe how good it felt. Lodges like Tau are not cheap, but we definitely left feeling like we got our full money’s worth. Aside from one unfortunate incident where I was chased by a monkey outside our chalet (unfortunate for me, funny for Chase), the entire stay was great.
We decided after checking out to drive an hour south to visit a place we heard about recently from a friend. There are many, many game parks and lodges in South Africa. As you drive down the main road leading to Johannesburg, passing cars with peril on the two lane highway that dissects flat bush terrain reminiscent of west Texas, you see sign after sign for turnoffs to different B&B/lodges. There are too many for the guide books to cover them all, so you run the risk of missing some hidden gems. One such place is Tala Manzi. There is no website for Tala Manzi and they do not do any advertising. It is run by a young Africaaner husband and wife who raise lions, and for the equivalent of about $10 you can go and hang out with lion cubs ranging from 5 weeks to one year old. We went from one group to the next, holding the smallest ones only slightly bigger than a house cat, to playing with the larger ones who definitely could have had us for dinner but were tame enough to permit our rolling on the ground with them. It was very strange going from the lodge we stayed at the night before, where we had to keep careful distance from the animals (see earlier comment about the monkey), to a place where domesticated wart hogs and kudu are chilling out next to dogs and lions. The whole drive home we kept saying “Did we really just play with lions?”
By the time we got back to the house Saturday evening we could not wait to see Findley. The smile he greeted us with dismissed silly concerns we had about whether or not he missed us or would be glad to see us. Hugs, kisses and then we gave him a colorful hand-made rattle purchased from the game lodge. He promptly banged it on the ground so hard that it shattered, tiny pebbles scattering all over the floor as our dog Kima started to eat them. (No doubt his way of saying “welcome home but time to get back to reality.”)
After lunch and a nap, we woke to the sound of a herd of elephants playing in the water hole just outside our chalet. We went on a game drive in the early evening and saw lots of animals, including 4 of the Big 5 (no leopards unfortunately), warthogs, giraffe, impala, springbock, kudu and wildebeest. The guide gave us lots of good dinner party trivia (Did you know giraffes copulate for 3 seconds, then sleep for half an hour? Or that Hippos cause more human deaths here every year than any other animal—not from eating people but from charging and knocking over boats and then people drowning as a result because most locals here don’t know how to swim.) After a brief stop on the drive for sundowners (cocktails) at sunset, we went back to the lodge for a big dinner. We did sleep in the next morning, and words can’t describe how good it felt. Lodges like Tau are not cheap, but we definitely left feeling like we got our full money’s worth. Aside from one unfortunate incident where I was chased by a monkey outside our chalet (unfortunate for me, funny for Chase), the entire stay was great.
We decided after checking out to drive an hour south to visit a place we heard about recently from a friend. There are many, many game parks and lodges in South Africa. As you drive down the main road leading to Johannesburg, passing cars with peril on the two lane highway that dissects flat bush terrain reminiscent of west Texas, you see sign after sign for turnoffs to different B&B/lodges. There are too many for the guide books to cover them all, so you run the risk of missing some hidden gems. One such place is Tala Manzi. There is no website for Tala Manzi and they do not do any advertising. It is run by a young Africaaner husband and wife who raise lions, and for the equivalent of about $10 you can go and hang out with lion cubs ranging from 5 weeks to one year old. We went from one group to the next, holding the smallest ones only slightly bigger than a house cat, to playing with the larger ones who definitely could have had us for dinner but were tame enough to permit our rolling on the ground with them. It was very strange going from the lodge we stayed at the night before, where we had to keep careful distance from the animals (see earlier comment about the monkey), to a place where domesticated wart hogs and kudu are chilling out next to dogs and lions. The whole drive home we kept saying “Did we really just play with lions?”
By the time we got back to the house Saturday evening we could not wait to see Findley. The smile he greeted us with dismissed silly concerns we had about whether or not he missed us or would be glad to see us. Hugs, kisses and then we gave him a colorful hand-made rattle purchased from the game lodge. He promptly banged it on the ground so hard that it shattered, tiny pebbles scattering all over the floor as our dog Kima started to eat them. (No doubt his way of saying “welcome home but time to get back to reality.”)
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Happy 1st Birthday Finn!
It's hard to believe our little guy celebrated his first birthday. Time sure does fly! I've decided to copy this slide show idea from my good friend (thank you Rives!)
Finn enjoyed his party. His friend Ella presented him with this birthday crown:
After he figured out what to do with his cupcake, he seemed to like (playing with) it.
Finally, he was really excited about new toys!
Finn enjoyed his party. His friend Ella presented him with this birthday crown:
After he figured out what to do with his cupcake, he seemed to like (playing with) it.
Finally, he was really excited about new toys!
Saturday, November 29, 2008
Dumela!
Dumela mma. O mang? (Hello Mam, what is your name?)
Dumela rra. Ke bediwa Chase, weno o mang? (Hello sir, my name is chase, and you, what is your name?)
Ke Tumelo. (I'm Tumelo) O tswa kae? (Where are you from?)
Ke tswa America. Ke itumelela gogoitse. (I'm from America. It's nice to meet you)
Learning Setswana is one of the many benefits of my new gig at the Baylor Clinic. Actually, it's necessary. Many of the kids come from rural villages and don't speak any English. While I've only learned a few of the basics, it's made a pleasant difference in my interaction with the children. If anything, my attempt at speaking their language with them gives them a good laugh and the ice is already broken.
I've now been with the Baylor Clinic for a solid month, and I couldn't be happier. I'm in my element! While my primary foucs is to help develop the Teen Club program, Finn and I have enjoyed starting a morning play group. If an HIV positive child is healthy, he/she comes to the clinic once a month. They come from near and far, and arrive early in the morning. The clinic sees 30 children a day. When they arrive, they receive a number and wait to be called. At this appointment they will see the pediatrician, get blood taken, receive refills on their meds, and some see the psychologist. Needless to say, this takes the entire morning...with lots of time in between to wait. Lindsay, the psychologist (and our new favorite friend), started working at the clinic in July. She has a vision that no child sits in the waiting room, but rather they be playing or learning. Since the only thing that depresses me about the Baylor Clinic is walking through that waiting room, I've decided to make her vision become a reality. So Finn in bjorn, we head to the clinic for a few hours most mornings. For now, our "play" is a mixture of games and arts and crafts. However, the ultimate goal is to put a structure in place that combines these activities with some nutrition education. Most importantly, I'm on a mission to recruit more volunteers so we can establish some sustainability.
Mochudi Teen Club Member
Mochudi Teen Club Member
Francistown Teen Club Members
Morning Play Group at Baylor Clinic
Dumela rra. Ke bediwa Chase, weno o mang? (Hello sir, my name is chase, and you, what is your name?)
Ke Tumelo. (I'm Tumelo) O tswa kae? (Where are you from?)
Ke tswa America. Ke itumelela gogoitse. (I'm from America. It's nice to meet you)
Learning Setswana is one of the many benefits of my new gig at the Baylor Clinic. Actually, it's necessary. Many of the kids come from rural villages and don't speak any English. While I've only learned a few of the basics, it's made a pleasant difference in my interaction with the children. If anything, my attempt at speaking their language with them gives them a good laugh and the ice is already broken.
I've now been with the Baylor Clinic for a solid month, and I couldn't be happier. I'm in my element! While my primary foucs is to help develop the Teen Club program, Finn and I have enjoyed starting a morning play group. If an HIV positive child is healthy, he/she comes to the clinic once a month. They come from near and far, and arrive early in the morning. The clinic sees 30 children a day. When they arrive, they receive a number and wait to be called. At this appointment they will see the pediatrician, get blood taken, receive refills on their meds, and some see the psychologist. Needless to say, this takes the entire morning...with lots of time in between to wait. Lindsay, the psychologist (and our new favorite friend), started working at the clinic in July. She has a vision that no child sits in the waiting room, but rather they be playing or learning. Since the only thing that depresses me about the Baylor Clinic is walking through that waiting room, I've decided to make her vision become a reality. So Finn in bjorn, we head to the clinic for a few hours most mornings. For now, our "play" is a mixture of games and arts and crafts. However, the ultimate goal is to put a structure in place that combines these activities with some nutrition education. Most importantly, I'm on a mission to recruit more volunteers so we can establish some sustainability.
Mochudi Teen Club Member
Mochudi Teen Club Member
Francistown Teen Club Members
Morning Play Group at Baylor Clinic
Thursday, November 27, 2008
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